What are the criteria we look at?
For the fabrics we require some of the following criteria, but not all together:
- Low Water Need
- Low Energy Need
- Made of Wastes
- From Renewable Sources
- Chemical Control
- No GMO
- No Soil Erosion
- Biodegradable
Fabrics We Like
Recycled Polyester
(low water need, low energy need, made of wastes, no GMO, no soil erosion)
Recycled polyester, often referred to as rPet, is made from recycled plastic bottles. This diverts plastic from reaching our landfills, requires on average 70% less energy to produce and produces 54% fewer CO2 emissions compared to virgin polyester.
There are two ways to recycle polyester: For mechanical recycling, plastic is melted to make new yarn. This process can only be done a few times before the fibre loses its quality. Chemical recycling involves breaking down the plastic molecules and reforming them into yarn. This process maintains the quality of the original fibre and allows the material to be recycled infinitely, but it is more expensive.
Recycled polyester is definitely a sustainable option for our wardrobe. However, we need to be aware that it is still non-biodegradable and takes years to disappear once thrown away. It also still releases plastic microfibres, so be sure to use a fibre filter bag to catch the micro-plastics and prevent them from getting into our rivers, lakes and oceans!
Recycled Nylon
(low water need, low energy need, made of wastes, no GMO, no soil erosion)
Recycled Nylon has the same benefits as recycled polyester: it diverts waste from landfills and cleans up our oceans. Its production uses much fewer resources than virgin nylon (including water, energy and fossil fuel).
A large part of the recycled nylon produced comes from old fishing nets, where nylon represents 10% of the debris in the oceans, contributed by 600,000 tons of fishing gear including nylon nets, being dumped into the ocean each year. This is a great solution to divert garbage from the ocean. It also comes from nylon carpets, tights, etc. Recycling nylon is still more expensive than new nylon, but it has many environmental advantages.
Organic Cotton
(low water need, low energy need, from renewable resources, chemical control, no GMO, no soil erosion, biodegradable)
The fabric has the same quality as conventional cotton but not the negative impact on the environment. Organic cotton addresses most of the environmental challenges which conventional cotton production faces. Unfortunately, only 07% of global cotton production is organic.
It is grown from non-GMO seeds and without the use of pesticide, insecticide or fertiliser. Unlike conventional cotton, organic farmers use ancestral farming methods, including crop-rotation, mixed farming or no-till farming to preserve the soil. Organic cotton uses up to 71% less water than conventional cotton according to some sources. Importantly, organic cotton farmers are not exposed to harmful substances.
Several organisations have established certifications for organic cotton such as GOTS, USDA-NOP, Organic Content Standards, IVN and Naturland. Certification is the only proof that a product is truly organic.
Lyocell (Tencel®)
(low water need, low energy need, from renewable resources, chemical control, no GMO, no soil erosion, biodegradable)
Lyocell is a manufacturing process of rayon which is much more eco-friendly than its relative’s modal and viscose. Lyocell is made in a closed-loop system that recycles almost all of the chemicals used. “Lyocell” is the generic name of the manufacturing process and fibre. Tencel® is the brand name of the lyocell commercialized by the company Lenzing AG.
Tencel® is made from eucalyptus from PEFC certified forests. Eucalyptus trees grow quickly without the use of pesticides, fertilizers or irrigation. Just like rayon and viscose, lyocell is 100% biodegradable.